Is the green creeping up your siding and driveway?

When did you last really look at the north side of your house?

Not a glance from the car. A real look. Is there a green haze creeping up the siding? Black streaks under the eaves? A driveway that used to be light gray and now looks like it has been wearing the same coat for ten winters?

That is the feeling that sends people to a page like this. You pull up to your own house and it looks tired, and you know it did not look that way when you moved in. It is not that you do not care. It is that the dirt came slowly, a little every season, and one day you saw it all at once.

I am Timothy Parks, and I wash houses, driveways, decks, fences and patios in Dresden, Martin and Union City, Tennessee. I read what you send me, I call you back, and I do the work myself. This page is the plain version of how it goes, what it can fix, what it cannot. How to get ready, so you can decide at your own pace whether you want to ask me a question.

Why does the green keep coming back to the same spots?

Because the same spots stay damp. West Tennessee air holds a lot of moisture for much of the year, and algae loves a wall that never gets full sun. The north side, the shady corner behind the shrubs, the fence line under the oak, the step by the downspout. Those are the places that go first.

Here is what is usually sitting on your surfaces:

• Algae and mildew, the green, gray and black streaks that show up where it stays damp.
• Pollen and tree debris that settle in spring and turn to paste when rain follows.
• Dirt splashed up from the ground onto the bottom few feet of every wall.
• Oil and grease drips on the driveway and in the carport.
• Rust marks from metal furniture, nails and sprinkler water.
• Moss and lichen along the edges of steps, shaded walkways and older concrete.

None of that means you failed at anything. It is what weather does to a house. But there is one part worth taking seriously. Algae and moss hold moisture against the surface, and a surface that stays wet ages faster than one that dries out between rains. A green step is also a slick step. Waiting a season will not ruin anything, but the growth gets thicker, it spreads, and thick growth is harder to take off than thin growth. That is the honest cost of leaving it, and it is not a reason to panic. It is just a reason to keep it on your list.

What can I actually wash?

Almost everything on the outside of a home, as long as the method fits the surface. That is the part that matters most. The same spray that makes a concrete driveway look new can chew up soft wood or strip paint right off a wall. So I never treat it as one setting for every job.

The jobs people ask about most:

• Vinyl and other siding on the walls of the house.
• Concrete driveways, garage aprons and sidewalks.
• Wood and composite decks and steps.
• Wood, vinyl and metal fences.
• Patios of concrete, pavers or stone.
• Front and back porches and entry steps.
• Outdoor furniture and other small items that are easy to reach.

If you are not sure whether something can be cleaned safely, ask. A few surfaces are better left alone, and I would rather tell you that on the phone than find out on your wall.

Is your siding the first thing people see, and the last thing you want to look at?

Siding collects algae, dust and spiderwebs faster than most people expect. The shaded sides go green first. The sunny side shows more dust and pollen. By the time you notice, the whole house has usually changed color a shade or two.

Walls get cleaned from the top down, so dirty water runs over areas I have not reached yet and gets rinsed away at the end. I do not drive water upward under the overlap of the boards, because that pushes moisture behind the wall where you cannot see it. For siding, a gentler wash with a cleaning solution doing most of the work is usually the right call, not a hard blast.

Before I start, it helps to close your windows, check that the screens are in good shape. Move or cover anything that should not get wet, like a doormat, a grill or a wreath. Take a look at outdoor outlets and light fixtures too. If you have a cracked seal around a window, point it out and I will keep water away from that spot.

Brick and painted walls need a word of their own. Old mortar can crumble under a hard spray, and paint that is already peeling can come off in sheets. If you can see flaking, tell me before the work, so I can talk about a gentle approach and what to expect from it.

What does a driveway cost you when it looks this worn?

Not money, necessarily. It is the small sting every time you turn in. Oil spots, tire marks, leaf stains and a gray-green film that makes the whole front of the house look older than it is.

Concrete is tough, but it is porous. Stains sink in. On big flat areas I use a flat surface cleaner, which spins the spray in a circle close to the ground and gives an even result. A hand wand used carelessly leaves stripes, and I do not like stripes any more than you do.

Pavers add another thing to think about. The sand packed between the stones is what holds them in place, and a strong spray can wash some of it out. Joints may need to be refilled after a cleaning. Stone and brick can be marked by a spray that is too close or too strong, so the distance and the tip matter.

Old concrete with cracks, flaking or loose patches needs extra care, because water can make a weak spot worse. I look at the surface first and I decide how to proceed from there. Walkways and steps are a safety matter too. A green, slick step is a slip waiting to happen. Cleaning off the algae is one of the simplest ways to make an entry safer for your family and your visitors.

Is the deck still worth saving?

Often, yes. Wood is where gentle handling matters most, and it is where a lot of people have been burned by a hard spray at close range. Too much pressure lifts splinters, leaves fuzzy marks and cuts grooves along the grain. Weathered gray wood usually cleans up well with moderate pressure and the right technique. Soft or rotted boards do not hold up to it, and I will tell you when I see one.

Composite decking is usually more forgiving, though it can still be scuffed. Vinyl and metal fences clean easily. Old wooden fences may shed paint or stain as they are washed, so it is worth knowing what is on yours.

If you plan to stain or seal your deck or fence, cleaning comes first, and the wood has to dry fully before any finish goes on. Tell me your plans when I talk, so the order of the work makes sense. Also look at the fasteners. Nails that have worked loose and boards that have cupped can catch the spray and get worse. If a deck needs small repairs before or after cleaning, I can often help with those too, since handyman work is the other thing I do.

Pressure washing or soft washing, and how do I know which one?

You may hear both terms, and the difference is simpler than it sounds. Pressure washing means a stronger spray, and it suits hard surfaces like concrete. Soft washing means lower pressure with a cleaning solution doing most of the work. It is the usual choice for surfaces that damage easily, like siding.

Mildew and algae, for example, are often handled better by letting a cleaner loosen them than by blasting at them. The goal is a clean surface that is not harmed by the cleaning. Tell me what the material is and what you see on it, and I pick the method before anyone shows up. Photos of the problem areas make that easy, and sending one is a small, easy first step. No commitment in it.

What can pressure washing fix, and what can it not?

I would rather you hear this from me now than discover it later. Washing removes what sits on the surface. It does not repair what is wrong underneath.

It can take off:

• Algae, mildew, moss and lichen.
• Pollen, dust, cobwebs and road splash.
• Many oil, tire and leaf stains, depending on how long they have been there.
• The gray, weathered film on wood, so the grain shows again.

It cannot fix:

• Cracked or crumbling concrete, loose pavers or rotted boards. Washing shows them more clearly. It does not mend them.
• Paint that is already failing. Washing can pull more of it off, so a repaint may come next.
• Deep rust, old dye and oil that has soaked in deep and long. These can leave a shadow even after a good cleaning.
• Damage from water that got behind siding or around a window before I arrived.

If a stain is likely to stay, I will say so before I start, so the result does not surprise you. Honest expectations beat a happy promise every time.

How should I get ready?

A little preparation makes the day go smoothly and protects your belongings. Here is a simple checklist you can work through at your own pace:

• Move cars out of the driveway and away from the area being cleaned.
• Bring in or move patio furniture, planters, toys, rugs and grills.
• Close windows and doors, and check that screens are secure.
• Cover or move delicate plants if you can, or tell me which ones matter most to you.
• Put pets inside and let family members know the work is happening.
• Make sure an outdoor water spigot is easy to reach and works.
• Note any areas you are worried about, such as cracked concrete, loose siding or peeling paint.

If you are not going to be home, I sort out gates, spigots and notes when I schedule. Clearing a path along the side of the house also saves time, since hoses and equipment have to be carried through.

What about water and getting to every corner?

Washing needs a steady supply of water, and most of the time that is just your outdoor spigot. Check that it runs freely and does not leak at the handle. A weak spigot slows everything down.

Access matters too. A narrow side yard, a locked gate, a steep slope or a thick hedge can make a section harder to reach. Mention these during the call so nothing is a surprise on the day. Tall walls and high gables are a separate question, since reaching them takes more than a hose. Some parts of a house are better cleaned from the ground with the right tools. I will tell you straight if something is out of reach.

How does a job go, step by step?

Every job starts with a conversation, not a price list. You stay in control of the pace the whole way.

• Call me at (407) 383-9118. A photo helps if you have one.
• I read it and call you back. You can ask questions, and I ask a few of mine.
• The price depends on the job, the location and the drive time. I explain it to you by phone, plainly, so you know what it covers.
• If the work suits you, I pick a day. If you want to think it over, that is fine too.
• On the day I do the work, and afterward I walk the property together.

Dresden, Martin and Union City are close enough that the drive is reasonable. Because the price depends on drive time, the call is also where you hear how your address fits. You will hear it plainly, not be left waiting.

What happens on the day itself?

I look over the areas again with you if you are home, set up the water and start. If there is any doubt about how a surface will react, I begin with the least visible spot and watch what happens before moving on. The machine is loud, and water will run across the ground and down into drains or the lawn. That is normal.

If something comes up, like a loose board or stain that won't lift, I inform you at the time instead of leaving it for later. I handle stains that don't come out completely, and rust, deep oil, and old dye are common issues. You'll hear from me if I think one will stay, before the work begins, not afterwards.

What do I do after the work is done?

Surfaces should dry for a while before furniture goes back, and wet surfaces can be slick, so walk carefully. Wood needs longer than concrete.

A few things keep the clean look around longer:

• Walk around and look at every area that was cleaned, with me if you can.
• Let decks and fences dry fully before staining or sealing.
• Trim shrubs and vines back from the walls so shade does not bring the green back as fast.
• Keep gutters and downspouts clear, since overflow streaks siding and stains concrete.
• Sweep leaves off porches and walkways so they do not leave marks.

Clean surfaces tend to stay clean longer when they get sun and airflow. That small bit of trimming and sweeping pays you back.

Is there a good time of year for this?

Washing can be done through most of the year, but some seasons suit certain jobs better. Late spring, after most of the pollen has settled, is a popular time for siding and decks. Early fall suits driveways and patios, before the leaves drop and before winter makes some work harder.

Cold matters. Water left on concrete can freeze and leave a slick surface, so winter cleaning takes thought. Heavy rain or high wind can also move a day. I talk about timing when you call, and plans can shift if the weather does not cooperate.

If you are cleaning before an event, a sale or a paint job, tell me the date you have in mind. Working backward from it leaves room for drying time and weather. You choose the date. I just help you see what fits.

How often should it be done?

There is no single answer. A shaded house with trees nearby and lots of humidity can need cleaning more often than a house in full sun. Many homeowners find a yearly look at the siding is plenty, while driveways and walkways wear at their own pace.

A good rule is to clean when the buildup starts to bother you, or when you are about to paint, stain, sell or host. Waiting longer is not a disaster, but heavy growth takes more effort to remove. Growth that has been holding moisture against a surface for a long time can leave it looking worse than it was.

What should you ask anyone you hire to wash your house?

Whoever you choose, a few questions help you feel comfortable. You are welcome to ask me every one of them:

• Who will actually do the work, and will it be the person you talk to?
• How will the surface be cleaned, and why is that method right for it?
• What should you move or protect before the visit?
• What happens if something is damaged or a stain stays?
• How is the price worked out, and what does it cover?
• How long will the job take, and when can you use the area again?

With me, the person who reads your request is the person who calls you back and the person who does the work. That is how I like it, and I think you will too.

Ready to get your weekend, and your curb, back?

Picture pulling into the driveway and not wincing. The siding bright, the steps safe underfoot, the deck ready for the first cookout of the season. That is the whole point. Not a miracle, just a house you are glad to come home to, and one more thing crossed off a list that keeps growing.

Call me at (407) 383-9118. Tell me what you would like cleaned and where it is. A photo is welcome. I call you back, answer your questions, and you decide what happens next.

The price depends on the job, the location and the drive time. There is no price on this website, because I would rather explain it to you on the phone than guess. No rush, no pressure. Start with a question if that is easier.

Which credentials do I hold?

These are the credentials I hold, listed as issued. They are Florida credentials, listed as facts about me. They are not a Tennessee licence and I do not present them as one.

• Florida Building Contractor, CBC059592
• Florida Roofing Contractor, CCC1327217
• Florida Home Inspector, HI4878

Ask me what any of them covers and I will tell you plainly.

Common questions