Tree Removal in Dresden, TN

Is that tree beside your house a shade source or a risk?

Most of the year it is both, and nobody thinks about the second half until a thunderstorm bends the crown sideways and you find yourself standing at the window counting how many seconds it would take to hit the roof.

I am Timothy Parks, and tree removal for homeowners in Dresden and across Weakley County, Tennessee is work I approach with respect for two things: the tree, which took decades to grow, and the property around it, which can be damaged in seconds when a large piece of wood comes down the wrong way.

This page covers how I judge whether a tree needs to come down, what removal actually involves, how the trees of this region behave, what happens to the stump and the debris and how to get started. If you already know what you need, my phone line, (407) 383-9118 is the shortest path.

How do I tell whether a tree is a hazard?

Not every tree that looks bad is dangerous, and not every dangerous tree looks bad. I look at the whole tree, from the roots to the crown, and at what it could hit if it fell. A weak tree in an open field is a different problem from the same tree beside a bedroom.

Here are the signs I take seriously:

• Dead wood in the crown. Branches with no leaves in summer, bark peeling away or large dead limbs hanging over the house, driveway or play area.
• Cracks and splits. Vertical cracks in the trunk, or a fork where two stems join with included bark (a tight V-shape) are structural weak points.
• Fungus at the base or on the trunk. Mushrooms or shelf fungus often mean decay inside the wood.
• Cavities and hollow sounds. A hollow trunk can still stand for years, but it has less strength than it looks like.
• Leaning. A slow lean that has always been there is less worrying than a new lean, especially if the soil on the opposite side is heaved or cracked.
• Root damage. Cut roots from trenching or construction, exposed roots, sunken soil or roots lifting a driveway.
• Storm damage. Broken tops, torn limbs, hangers (broken branches stuck in the crown) and bark stripped by lightning.
• Crowding and overhang. Limbs rubbing the roof, power lines nearby or branches over the chimney.

If you see several of these on one tree, it is worth a closer look. If a tree is close to the house and shows even one serious sign, do not wait for the next storm. Take a photo, note when you first noticed the problem and send it to me.

Which trees grow around Dresden and what are they like?

West Tennessee has a mixed hardwood and pine landscape, and each species has habits that matter when it comes to removal.

I do not mean to say any species is bad. A healthy maple can be a pleasure. But species and age tell me what to expect, and they influence how I rig and cut the tree.

What does a removal job involve, step by step?

Removal is more than cutting down a tree. It is a controlled dismantling that has to account for gravity, the weight of wood, the layout of the lot and the people and structures nearby. This is the sequence.

1. Site walk. I look at the tree, the lot and everything the tree could touch: roofs, wires, fences, sheds, pools, neighboring property and vehicles. I choose a plan based on what I see.
2. Safety setup. I mark a drop zone and keep people and pets out. I cover or protect delicate landscaping where I can. I check overhead lines. If a tree is touching or near a power line, I stop and tell you the utility needs to handle that part.
3. Access and climbing. Depending on the tree, I climb, use a ladder or work from the ground. Inspecting the climbing route is part of the job, since dead wood can break under weight.
4. Limbing and sectioning. In tight spaces, I take the tree down in pieces, lowering each section on ropes. In open spaces with clear room, I may fell the tree in one direction after notching and back cutting it.
5. Cutting the trunk. Once the crown is down, the trunk is cut in lengths I can move and handle.
6. Cleanup. Brush is chipped or hauled. Wood is cut to size, stacked for you or taken away depending on what we agreed. I rake and blow the area.
7. Stump. The stump is either cut as low as possible, ground out or left, depending on your plan.

I keep the sequence flexible. If I find rot or hidden decay once the tree is open, I adjust the plan. Safety changes the order of things, and I would rather slow down than rush a cut.

What about trees near houses, wires and fences?

The harder the job, the more it matters to plan. A tree in an open field is simple. A tree between a house and a power line is not.

Over the house. When a tree leans over a roof, it cannot be dropped in one piece. I climb and dismantle it, rigging each piece to lower it past the roof. This takes longer, and it costs more attention than it does force. I protect the roof where I can and I tell you in advance if there is a risk of scuffed shingles.

Near power lines. Trees near lines can carry electricity or can fall into the lines. I do not cut within the clearance zone around energized lines. I tell you if the utility has to be called, and I wait for them. Never touch a tree or limb that is on or near a wire.

Along fences and property lines. If the tree is near a boundary, the neighbor deserves a heads up. Whose tree it is can depend on where the trunk stands. Ask me about your situation. I cannot give legal advice, but I can describe what I see.

Near septic systems, wells and buried lines. Heavy equipment and root removal can damage these. If you know where they are, tell me. For digging near utility lines, Tennessee runs a call-before-you-dig line, 811, that marks buried utilities, and I use it where excavation is involved.

Tight yards. Where a crane or lift would be too large and a truck cannot get close, I rely on climbing and hand rigging.

What do I do after a storm drops a tree?

This is the situation where most people call. A tree on the roof, across the driveway or against the fence is stressful, and it can be dangerous. Here is what to do first.

1. Stay clear of anything near a downed line. Assume it is live.
2. Check the house for water coming in. A tree through a roof is a roof problem and a water problem at once.
3. Photograph the tree and the damage from several angles before anything moves.
4. Do not cut a tree that is resting on a structure. Stress in the wood can make it spring, shift or roll when cut. A tree under tension can injure someone badly.
5. Call me and tell me exactly where it is and whether water is entering.

If a tree has opened the roof, the first priority is to stop more water getting in. The emergency tarp installation page explains the temporary cover, and the emergency roof help page covers urgent situations. Once the tree is off and the roof is protected, the roof repair page describes the permanent fix.

Many storm trees are not as bad as they look. Others have hidden damage that shows up later, such as split trunks or lifted roots. I examine the trees that remain standing after the same storm, since a stressed neighbor may be next.

What happens to the stump and the wood?

These two questions decide the cleanup, so I ask them before I start.

Stumps. After a tree is cut, a stump remains. You have three common choices. Cut it low and leave it, which is simplest and lets it rot slowly. Grind it below the surface with a stump grinder, which allows you to plant grass or build over the spot. Or remove it entirely, which is a big excavation job and rarely necessary. Grinding leaves a pile of chips that can be used as mulch or hauled away.

Wood. You can keep the logs for firewood, have them cut to a length you want or have me haul them. Some species are better than others for burning. Oak and hickory burn long and hot, while pine and sweetgum burn faster and leave more creosote. Seasoned wood is drier and safer in the stove than wood freshly cut. Tell me if you want it and I will leave it stacked.

Brush and limbs. Smaller material is chipped or hauled. Chips can go back to your beds as mulch if you like. Local rules on burning and on where debris may go differ between the city and the county, and I follow them.

Fill and regrading. After stump grinding, the hole should be filled and graded. If the tree sat in a low spot or near the foundation, I pay attention to where the water goes afterward. The site work page describes what is involved in larger grading jobs.

Can a tree be saved instead of removed?

Sometimes, yes, and I would rather save a good tree than cut one that did not need to go. Many trees can be made safe by pruning rather than removal.

• Deadwooding. Removing dead limbs reduces the chance of failure and improves appearance.
• Crown thinning. Opening up a dense crown lets wind pass through instead of pushing against it.
• Reduction. Shortening long limbs that overhang a roof reduces leverage and weight.
• Clearance pruning. Lifting or trimming limbs away from the roof, chimney, wires and walls.

I am cautious about topping, which means cutting the main stems of a tree back to stubs. It makes a tree look smaller, but it leaves wounds that decay and encourages weak new growth. If a tree is too big for its site, removal and replanting something smaller is usually better than topping.

If a tree is stressed but not failing, I may recommend watching it, dealing with the cause, such as compacted soil, root damage or drainage, and reassessing later. If you want a specialist's opinion on a valuable or historic tree, I will tell you so.

When is the best time to remove a tree?

A hazard tree should come down when it is a hazard, in any season. For trees that are not urgent, there are a few useful points.

Winter and late fall. Without leaves, it is easier to see the structure of the tree and its defects. The ground is firm, which protects the lawn from equipment. This is often the best time for planned removal.

Spring. The ground can be soft, and storms can interrupt the schedule. Still workable, but plan for delays.

Summer. Heat is hard on climbers and on you. Leaves add weight to the crown. It is doable, and if a tree is dying, summer is often when you notice.

After storms. Everyone needs tree work at once. If your tree is not blocking anything or threatening anyone, waiting a bit may help the schedule, and I tell you honestly how urgent I think it is.

A good rule is to deal with it before the stormy season if the tree has a known problem. Do not wait for the wind to settle the question.

What permits or rules should I check?

For most residential trees, there is no permit needed to remove your own tree. Rules vary by city, subdivision and county, and some places protect certain trees or require notice. Neighborhood associations may have their own policies.

If the tree is on a boundary, in a utility easement or in a right-of-way, the rules get more complicated. If it is a street tree, the city may own it. If it is near a creek or wetland, there may be local limits on disturbance. I do not want you or me to run into trouble, so I ask and, if needed, I check with the relevant office before cutting.

If the tree is diseased with something that spreads, such as certain pests, I tell you how to dispose of the wood so you do not spread the problem. Moving firewood long distances can carry insects with it, so burning wood near where it was cut is a good practice.

Why not cut it down myself?

Plenty of people in Weakley County own a chainsaw and have cut a few trees. For small trees in open ground, that can be reasonable. But the jobs people call me about are usually the ones that go past that line, and I want to be straight about why.

A tree is heavier than it looks. A medium oak limb can weigh hundreds of pounds, and a whole trunk section can weigh more than a car. Wood under tension, such as a limb bent by another limb or a tree resting on a fence, releases that energy suddenly when cut. A tree hung up in another tree is a serious hazard that kills people every year.

Climbing with a saw is a skill that takes training. Falls from ladders and trees account for many of the injuries in this work. Kickback from a chainsaw is fast and unforgiving. Protective gear such as a helmet, eye and ear protection, chaps and gloves reduces injuries but does not remove the risk.

Small trees, brush and limbs you can reach from the ground are different. If you are cutting those, wear proper protection, keep others away, look up for hangers and never cut above shoulder height. For anything tall, near the house, near wires or under stress, I recommend letting someone with the equipment and experience do it. I would rather get a call about a tree that turned out to be easy than a call after an accident.

What equipment and cleanup standards do I follow?

A removal job runs on preparation. Before I begin, I check my ropes, harness, saws and rigging gear, and I walk the route the tree will travel. I keep an eye on the weather. Wind makes tree work unpredictable, and a gusty afternoon is a day to reschedule.

I work to keep the damage to your property low. Plywood or mats under equipment protect lawns and driveways where it matters. Branches are lowered, not dropped, onto roofs and fences. Landscaping near the work zone is covered or moved when possible. I tell you in advance about the risks I cannot fully control, such as a root ball that pulls out a chunk of lawn or an old fence that may not survive a nearby cut.

Cleanup is part of the job, not an extra. At the end I rake, blow and walk the area for nails, wire and sharp debris. Sawdust and wood chips remain where the work was done, which is normal, and you can have them spread or hauled. If something looks wrong when I finish, tell me and I will take another look.

How do I start?

Send my phone line, (407) 383-9118 with your name, phone number, address and a description of the tree: how big, where it stands, what worries you and what it might hit. A few photos from different angles help me understand the job before I arrive.

I will call you back and ask a few questions. Then I will visit, look at the tree and the site and describe what I recommend. You hear the plan, including any risks, what will be cleaned up and what you are expected to do. Nothing proceeds until you agree.

So, what is the tree doing right now? If it is leaning, cracked, dead or sitting on something, tell me first. If it is just something you have been wondering about, that is fine too. A short conversation costs you nothing.

Which credentials do I hold?

These are the credentials I hold, listed as issued. They are Florida credentials, listed as facts about me and not as a statement about any other state.

• Florida Roofing Contractor, CCC1327217

Ask me what any of them covers and I will tell you plainly.

Common questions