Metal Buildings in Dresden, TN

Is a steel building on your land a smart move or a headache waiting to happen?

The honest answer is that it depends almost entirely on what happens before the first panel goes up: the slab, the anchors, the drainage and the way the kit is put together. I am Timothy Parks, and I erect metal buildings for owners in Dresden and across Weakley County, Tennessee.

Weakley County is full of open fields, rolling ground and long driveways, and steel buildings suit that landscape. They go up relatively quickly once the foundation is ready, they offer wide open interior space and they hold up well when they are put together properly. They also have habits that surprise first-time owners: condensation that drips from the underside of the roof, panels that rattle in the wind if they are poorly fastened and slabs that crack if the ground was not prepared.

This page explains how I approach a steel building, what to ask about the kit you buy, what the ground and the slab need, and what to watch for in the years after it is up. If you already have a building in mind, start with my phone line, (407) 383-9118 and tell me where it will sit.

What is a metal building, and what makes one different from a pole barn?

A metal building here usually means a pre-engineered steel structure: steel columns and rafters, or a rigid frame, bolted together on a concrete foundation and covered in steel wall and roof panels. The parts arrive from the manufacturer cut, drilled and marked, and the job is to assemble them accurately on a foundation that is ready for them.

It differs from a pole barn in how it stands on the ground. A pole barn sets wooden posts into the earth or onto piers and frames around them, as described on the pole barn page. A steel building bolts its columns to a concrete slab or footings through anchor bolts that were cast into the concrete at exact positions. That means the foundation has to be accurate to a small tolerance, because the steel is made to a fixed pattern and it will not stretch to meet a slab that is a few inches off.

Steel buildings span wider without interior posts, which is why they suit workshops, equipment storage, large hobby spaces and agricultural uses where open floor matters. If a smaller outbuilding is what you need, the garages page explains another approach.

I will tell you honestly which type of building fits your use and your land, even when the answer is a different one from what you first had in mind.

How does a metal building job start with me?

It starts with what you plan to do inside. Equipment, vehicles, a shop with machinery, a hay barn, a workspace you want to heat: each use changes the height, width, door sizes, floor and insulation the building needs. Tell me what you will store or do, the largest piece of equipment you will drive in and whether you will want power, lights and heat.

Then I come to look at the site. I walk the ground, check the slope and drainage, note where a delivery truck and a crane or lift can reach and see how close the spot is to trees, fences, wires and neighboring property. I ask about septic systems, wells and buried lines, since an unmarked utility is a hazard to both of us.

If you already have a kit ordered or a manufacturer's drawing, bring it. If not, I explain what to ask a supplier so you buy a building that suits the site. A lot of trouble with steel buildings starts with a kit that was bought before anyone looked at the lot.

After the visit, I describe the work in writing: what I am responsible for, what the foundation involves, how the building will be erected and what is excluded. We go through it together and I answer questions before anything starts.

What does the ground and the slab need to get right?

The foundation is the most important part of a steel building, and it is the part you cannot fix after the walls are up. Weakley County has a mix of sandy loam and heavy clay, and each behaves differently under a slab.

• Site preparation: clearing the area, removing topsoil, and building up and compacting a stable base so the slab does not settle unevenly.
• Drainage: water must move away from the slab and from the base of the walls. A building that sits in a low spot will stay damp and may be hard to keep dry.
• Footings and thickened edges: sized for the building's loads and set below the depth where the ground is affected by frost and moisture swings.
• Reinforcement: steel in the slab and footing keeps cracks tight and the slab level.
• Anchor bolts: cast in at the exact positions shown on the manufacturer's drawing, with the right projection and embedment.
• Vapor barrier and base: a layer of compacted gravel and a moisture barrier under the slab protect equipment and stored goods from rising damp.

Anchor bolt layout deserves its own mention. If a bolt is off position, the column base plate will not fit, and the fix is either a field repair that weakens the connection or cutting out and re-setting concrete. I check the layout against the drawing before the concrete is poured and again before it sets, because that is the cheapest moment to fix a mistake.

I also tell you plainly if the ground under your chosen spot is a poor choice, and I suggest an alternative site or a way to prepare it.

How does the steel go up?

Erection follows a sequence. Primary frames, the columns and rafters, go up first and are bolted to the anchors and to each other. Secondary members, the girts along the walls and the purlins across the roof, tie the frames together and carry the panels. Bracing goes in early, because a frame that is not braced is unstable. Only then are the wall and roof panels fastened on.

Every part has a position and a purpose, and the manufacturer's drawings show where each belongs. I work from them, check the frame for square and plumb as it goes up and tighten bolts to the specified values. Cutting corners, such as leaving out bracing or skipping bolts because the structure looks stable, is the kind of shortcut that shows up in the first strong wind.

Panels are fastened with screws that have a sealing washer. Where they land matters: the panel rib, the screw location and the sealing at the ridge, eaves and corners determine whether the roof leaks. Trim pieces, flashing, closures and sealants finish the building and keep out wind-driven rain, birds and insects.

Large doors, such as roll-up doors or sliding doors, are framed and hung once the shell is up. Man doors and windows go in at planned openings, with flashing around each one. I plan these early because every opening changes the framing around it.

Why does a steel building sweat, and what can be done about it?

Condensation is one of the most common complaints about steel buildings. Metal is thin and conducts heat and cold quickly, and Tennessee has humid air and big temperature swings between day and night. When warm, moist air meets a cold metal roof, water forms on the underside and drips. It can look like a leak, but the roof may be perfectly sound.

The fixes are insulation, ventilation and moisture control. A layer of insulation attached to the underside of the roof panels stops the metal from getting cold enough to form droplets. Ridge vents, gable vents and eave vents let moist air leave instead of collecting. A moisture barrier under the slab reduces vapor rising from the ground, and keeping the floor dry reduces what the air carries.

If you plan to store tools, vehicles, grain, feed or anything that rusts or spoils, think about condensation from the start. It is much easier to specify insulation and vents when the building is ordered than to retrofit them later. Retrofitting is possible, but it takes more effort.

If you already own a metal building that sweats, send me photos of the underside of the roof and tell me how the building is used. I can tell you whether it is condensation or a real leak and what the options are.

What goes wrong with metal buildings in this region?

Most trouble comes from a handful of causes, and most of them are visible if you know where to look. Here is a list of what I check on an existing building.

• Loose or backed-out screws on the roof and walls, which let water in and let panels flutter in wind.
• Rust at cut edges, scratches, the base of walls and anywhere water sits against steel.
• Sealant that has dried, cracked or pulled away at ridge caps, trim and penetrations.
• Leaks at skylights, vents and any hole cut into the roof after the building was erected.
• Cracks or settlement in the slab, especially near the doors.
• Doors that bind or no longer seal, which often indicates the frame or the slab has moved.
• Standing water around the base, and soil that has washed away from the foundation edge.
• Dents and damage from equipment, hail or fallen limbs.

Many of these are small repairs if they are caught early. Re-seating a screw or resealing a seam takes little effort, while ignoring the same item for several seasons can lead to rust-through and water damage to everything stored inside.

A yearly walk around, plus a look after any major storm, catches most issues. I explain what to look for when the building is finished, and I am glad to take a look any time you notice something.

How does Tennessee weather shape the schedule?

Steel erection depends on the wind. Large panels act like sails, and a gust at the wrong moment is dangerous for the person holding one. I do not put up roof panels in strong or gusty conditions, and I will move a day rather than take the risk. Rain and wet ground slow concrete work and make it difficult to bring in a delivery truck without ruts, so I look closely at the forecast before a pour and before a delivery.

Summer heat affects the work too. Metal gets hot in the sun, so I plan roof work for cooler parts of the day. Cold weather affects concrete curing and sealant performance, so winter pours need extra protection or a better window.

Spring storms in West Tennessee can bring heavy wind, and a building under construction is most vulnerable before bracing and panels are complete. That is another reason for steady progress once the frames go up: the sooner the building is braced and closed in, the sooner it is stable.

I cannot promise perfect weather, and no honest contractor can. What I can do is tell you when conditions are delaying the work and explain the plan.

How should doors, openings and the interior be planned?

Openings are easiest to plan before the kit is ordered. A large roll-up or sliding door is the biggest hole in a steel wall, and the frame around it has to be sized for the span. Think about the tallest and widest thing you will ever drive through, then add room to spare, because a door that is a hand too narrow will annoy you every day.

Think about where people walk in. A man door near the corner you use most saves opening the big door for every small errand. Windows and skylight panels bring in light, which reduces the need for electric lighting, but each one is a penetration that must be flashed and sealed with care.

Inside, decide early whether you want a framed office, a bathroom, a loft or a divided shop. Interior walls and mezzanines may need support from the steel frame or from the slab, and it is easier to design for them than to bolt them on later. If you plan to run a compressor, welder or heavy machinery, the slab thickness and the electrical service both need to match.

Finally, think about growth. Steel buildings are often extended by adding a bay at one end, and a kit ordered with that in mind can leave the end wall ready to come off. It costs very little to mention it now.

Do I need permits for a steel building?

In many cases, yes, particularly for larger buildings, buildings with electrical service and buildings close to property lines. Requirements differ across Weakley County and its towns, and they can depend on the size, the use and whether the building is for agriculture or for other purposes. I do not guess. I tell you what to confirm and help with the applications that apply.

Setbacks, drainage and utility locations also come into play. A building too close to a boundary, an easement or a septic field is a problem you want to catch before a slab is poured. Deed restrictions and neighborhood rules can add their own limits.

Manufacturers supply drawings for their kits, and some local offices ask to see them. I work from those drawings and keep them on site so inspectors and I are looking at the same information. Inspections at planned stages, such as before a pour, are chances to correct something while it is easy.

What should a steel building scope say?

A kit price and an erected building are two different things, and it is worth being clear about who is responsible for what. Whoever you hire, ask for a written description that covers the following.

If a quote simply gives a total, it is impossible to compare it to another. If the scope leaves out the foundation, you may find the cost of the slab arrives later as a separate and sizable item. Clear scope avoids that.

Ready to talk about your building?

Send me your address, a short description of what you want to put in the building and a photo of the spot through my phone line, (407) 383-9118. If you have a manufacturer's drawing or a rough layout, include it.

If you are not sure whether a steel building is the right choice, read the pole barn and construction pages for comparison. If the site needs clearing or grading first, the site work page and the brush clearing page explain how that is handled.

A steel building is a long-term piece of your property. I would like you to end up with one that stays dry, stands straight and does what you built it for.

Which credentials do I hold?

These are the credentials I hold, listed as issued. They are Florida credentials, listed as facts about me and not as a statement about any other state.

• Florida Building Contractor, CBC059592

Ask me what any of them covers and I will tell you plainly.

Common questions