Pole Barn in Dresden, TN

What will actually live in your barn: hay, tractors, animals or a workshop?

The answer decides almost everything about the building, from the width of the doors to the height of the walls to whether the floor should be dirt, gravel or concrete. I am Timothy Parks, and I build pole barns for owners in Dresden and across Weakley County, Tennessee.

A pole barn, also called a post-frame building, is one of the oldest ideas in farm construction and one of the most useful. Large wood posts go into or onto the ground, carry the roof and walls and give you a wide open interior without the need for a full foundation. It is a good match for the land and the way people use it around here: equipment sheds, hay storage, livestock shelters, workshops and the large covered space that nothing else seems to provide.

This page explains how a pole barn goes up, what decides its shape and strength, how a job starts and what to keep an eye on over the years. When you are ready to describe yours, my phone line, (407) 383-9118 is the way in.

How is a pole barn built, and why does it stand the way it does?

The idea is simple. Instead of a continuous foundation under the walls, a pole barn stands on a row of large posts, usually laminated wood columns or pressure-treated posts, spaced evenly along the walls. The posts carry the load of the roof down to the ground. Horizontal members called girts connect the posts along the walls, and roof trusses sit on top of the posts and support purlins, on which the steel roofing is fastened.

The posts do two jobs. They hold up the building, and they resist wind by being anchored in the ground or to a footing. How they are anchored makes a big difference. Some are set in holes with a concrete collar or footing at the bottom and backfilled with compacted material. Others sit on concrete piers, with brackets connecting the post to the pier. Each method has its strengths, and the right one depends on soil, building size and use.

Because posts carry the load, the walls between them are not structural in the way they are in a conventional house. That is why a pole barn can have very wide door openings, tall sidewalls and interior spaces with few obstructions. The trade-off is that the wood in the posts, especially at ground level, needs protection from moisture and decay.

If you are comparing building types, the metal buildings page and the garages page describe other approaches and explain where each one fits.

How does a pole barn job start with me?

It starts with your plan for the building. I ask what will go in it and how you will use it day to day. A building for hay and farm equipment has different needs from a barn for horses, a woodworking shop or a place to park a camper. Tell me the biggest piece of equipment you will move in and out, how many animals if any, and whether you will want power, water or heat.

Then I come to walk the site. I look at the slope, the drainage and the soil, the path for deliveries, the location of power lines, trees and neighboring property. I ask about wells, septic systems and buried utilities, since digging holes for posts means digging in places that may hold pipes or lines. We talk about where the doors should face and how weather and traffic will reach the building.

After that, I describe the project in writing. The description covers the size, the post spacing and embedment, the truss and roof design, the wall and roof covering, the door and window openings, the floor and what is excluded. I explain it in plain language and answer questions. Nothing starts until you understand it and agree to it.

If you have a drawing, a sketch or a photo of a barn you like, bring it. It tells me more than a list of dimensions.

What goes into the ground, and why does it matter?

The part of a pole barn below grade is the part you will never see again, which makes it the part that most needs to be right. The posts, their depth, the way they are set and what surrounds them decide how long the building stands straight.

• Post material: laminated columns resist warping and splitting better than solid timbers, and lumber rated for ground contact resists decay.
• Hole depth: deep enough to resist wind uplift and overturning, and below the zone where the ground freezes and moves.
• Footings: a concrete pad or collar at the bottom of each hole spreads the load and keeps the post from sinking.
• Backfill: compacted gravel or concrete around the post, in layers, so it does not shift.
• Spacing: evenly measured along the walls according to the roof loads and the manufacturer's or designer's specification.
• Drainage: ground that slopes away from the building and keeps water from sitting around the posts.

In heavy clay, wet soil softens and swells, and posts can shift or heave with the seasons. In sandy loam, drainage is better, but the soil may offer less grip, and I may call for deeper holes or wider footings. I look at the soil on your site before I settle on a method, and I tell you what I see.

Layout is the other half. Posts must be placed in a straight line, at the right height and square to each other, or the whole building ends up crooked. I use string lines, measurements across diagonals and a transit or laser where it helps, and I check each post before I set it.

How do the roof and walls go on?

Once the posts are set and plumbed, the structure goes up quickly. Girts are fastened across the posts to carry the wall panels. A top plate or header ties the posts together at the roofline. Trusses, usually factory-made, are lifted and fastened to the posts, braced as they go and tied together with purlins. Bracing is critical: trusses that are not braced can fall like dominoes, and a roof that is not braced will not resist wind.

The steel roofing and siding are then fastened to the purlins and girts with screws that have sealing washers. Overhangs at the eaves and gable ends keep rain off the walls. Ridge caps and trim close the building at the top and corners. Where there is a cupola, a vent or a skylight, each penetration is flashed carefully, because every hole in the roof is a possible leak.

Roof pitch and overhang change how the barn behaves. A steeper roof sheds water and debris faster. A wide overhang keeps the walls drier but catches more wind. If you want to add a lean-to along one side, or an enclosed room at one end, plan it now so the framing can accommodate it.

If you are curious how steel roofing differs from other roof types, the roof replacement page describes the covering options and the flashing details in more depth.

Dirt, gravel or concrete: what should the floor be?

A pole barn does not need a slab to stand, and many are built with dirt or gravel floors. The choice depends on use and on how you plan to maintain the building. A gravel or packed-stone floor drains well and is easy on animals and equipment, but it will move over time and will need topping up. A dirt floor is the simplest, but it turns to mud when water finds it.

Concrete is worth thinking about if you will work in the building, park heavy equipment or store things that should stay dry. A slab can be poured inside the posts after the building is up, with a base of compacted gravel, a vapor barrier and reinforcement. It will cost more effort to build, but it makes cleaning easy and gives you a solid surface for tools and vehicles.

Livestock barns have special needs. Slopes for drainage, stall surfaces that are easy on hooves and floors that can be washed down all affect the design. If animals will live in the building, tell me early, because ventilation, door sizes and floor choice are different from those of a storage building.

Whatever floor you choose, the ground around the building matters as much. If water can run into the barn through the doorway, the best floor in the world will not help. I look at how the ground slopes and make sure water moves away.

What goes wrong with pole barns, and how can I spot it early?

Pole barns age well when they are built correctly and watched, and they age badly when moisture or movement is ignored. Here is the list I walk through on an existing building.

Most of these are small jobs when they are caught early. A soft section of post near the ground can sometimes be repaired or sistered. A loose screw takes a minute to replace. Left for several seasons, the same issues lead to larger repairs.

If you notice any of them on a barn you own, send me a few photos and a short description. I can usually tell you how serious it looks and what to do.

How do Tennessee seasons shape the work?

Pole barn construction depends on dry ground. Holes dug in wet clay fill with water, and posts set in mud are not set properly. Heavy rain makes deliveries difficult and turns the site into a mess, so I look at the forecast before digging and before lifting trusses. In winter, frozen ground slows digging and concrete needs protection while it cures.

Wind is a safety concern during erection. A frame with open trusses and large panels catches wind, and I do not lift trusses or roof panels in strong or gusty conditions. Spring storms in West Tennessee can arrive quickly, and a half-braced structure is most vulnerable then. Steady work and good bracing reduce that exposure.

Summer brings heat and humidity. Roof work on steel gets hot quickly, so I plan it for cooler parts of the day. Long daylight hours help, though afternoon storms are common, and I stop when lightning approaches.

If your schedule is flexible, tell me. Good conditions make for better work, and a building that does not have to be rushed is usually a better building.

What about doors, ventilation, light and power?

Openings and services are easier to plan on paper than to change after the walls are up. Sliding doors are the common choice for wide openings, because they do not swing out into the mud or snow. Overhead doors suit a workshop or a place to park a vehicle. Walk-in doors beside the big ones save you from opening the whole wall for a small errand. Tell me the tallest and widest thing you will drive through, and I will add margin to it.

Ventilation is more important than most people expect. A closed barn in a humid Tennessee summer holds heat and moisture, which is hard on hay, stored goods and animals alike. Ridge vents, gable vents and open eaves let warm, moist air leave. Hay stored in damp air can mold or heat up, so airflow is not a luxury.

Light and power are the details people most often regret skimping on. Translucent roof or wall panels bring in daylight without cutting holes. Electrical service needs trenching, a panel, outlets and lighting, and it is far easier to plan the routes before the floor and walls are finished. If you expect to run welders, compressors or heaters, say so, because they need dedicated circuits.

Finally, consider the future. A barn that can be extended at one end, or that has room for a lean-to, grows with you. Planning for that now costs little, and it can save you from tearing out a wall later.

Do I need permits for a pole barn?

It depends on the size, the use and the location. Agricultural buildings are sometimes treated differently from other structures, and rules vary across Weakley County and its towns. Buildings with electrical service, those used for business or those close to property lines may involve more review. I do not guess at the details, and I tell you what to confirm with the local office.

Setbacks matter, as do easements, drainage paths, septic fields and deed restrictions. A building placed too close to a boundary or a utility line causes trouble that is expensive to undo. I recommend settling these questions before the first post hole is dug.

Where inspections apply, they happen at stages when it is easy to correct something, such as before the posts are backfilled. I plan the work so those checks fit the sequence, and I would rather wait for an inspector than cover work that should have been seen.

What should a pole barn scope say?

Pole barns are sold in many forms, from basic kits to custom designs, and the differences are not always visible in a total. A written description makes it possible to compare. Ask whoever you hire for the following.

• Dimensions: width, length, sidewall height, door sizes and positions.
• Post type, size, spacing and embedment, and how they are set.
• Truss design, spacing and bracing.
• Roof and wall covering, color, trim and ventilation.
• Floor type and any base preparation.
• Doors, windows and any lean-tos or additions.
• Electrical, water or other services included or excluded.
• Permits and inspections, and who is responsible for them.
• Site cleanup, waste and what happens to excess soil.

A quote that simply states a size and a price leaves too much open. Vague scopes make it easy for extras to appear later, and difficult for you to see what you are buying.

I am happy to read someone else's description with you and explain what it contains and what it omits. Comparing like with like is the only fair way to choose.

Ready to talk about your barn?

Send me your address, a description of how you will use the building and a photo of the site through my phone line, (407) 383-9118. If you have a sketch or a dimension in mind, include it. I call you back, ask what I need to know and arrange a visit.

If the ground needs to be cleared or leveled first, the site work page and brush clearing page describe how that works. If you want the whole job coordinated start to finish, see project management.

A well-built barn will serve you for decades. I would be glad to help you build one that stays straight, stays dry and does what you need it to do.

Which credentials do I hold?

These are the credentials I hold, listed as issued. They are Florida credentials, listed as facts about me and not as a statement about any other state.

• Florida Building Contractor, CBC059592

Ask me what any of them covers and I will tell you plainly.

Common questions